Diamond Guide

Diamond Guide

DIAMONDS
CARAT
CUT
CLARITY
COLOR
GLOSSARY
Gemstones and
Their Treatments

DIAMONDS
A Certified Diamond is one that has been graded by an independent laboratory. The advantage of a certificate is that the grading is done by a qualified, independent, third party who is neither buying nor selling the stone. This insures no conflict of interest. Here at Gold In Art, we prefer to buy diamonds certified by E.G.L. and G.I.A. because they adhere to the highest standards of the four C's: carat, cut, clarity and color. back to top
CARAT
Carat is the weight of the stone, and therefore can only be determined accurately before the stone is mounted. Portions of a carat are called points, 100 points = 1 carat. For example, a diamond that weighs 75 points is a ¾ carat diamond. Diamonds are priced on a "per carat" basis, with the "price per carat" varying based on the size of the stone. For example: · A diamond that weighs 0.95 cts. (95 points) may cost $2,000 per carat for a selling price of $1900 (.95 x $2000) · A 1.05 ct. diamond with the same color, cut and clarity may cost $2,400 per carat for a selling price of $2520 (1.05 x $2400) This is because the "price per carat" goes up when the weight goes up. back to top
CUT
The term cut is sometimes confusing because it has a variety of meanings. Jewelers use it to refer to: · The shape of a gemstone (e.g. round, oval, or marquise) · The cutting style (e.g. brilliant or step cut, single or full cut) · The proportions of a stone (e.g. big or small table facet, deep or shallow pavilion) · The finish of a stone (e.g. polishing marks or smooth flawless surface, misshapen or symmetrical facets) Discuss the details regarding the cut of your diamond with your jeweler while you are deciding which diamond to buy. back to top
CLARITY
The universally accepted clarity grading scale is shown below:

FLAWLESS	VVS1-VVS2	VS1-VS2	SI1-SI2	I1-I2-I3
	Very, Very Slight Inclusions	Very Slight Inclusions	Slight Inclusions	Imperfect

Inclusions can be crystals, clouds, black spots, white spots, and sometimes even resemble cracks. Only diamonds falling in the Imperfect category should have inclusions that are visible to the naked eye. This rule holds true for any diamond that does not weigh more than a carat. All other inclusions are based on looking at the diamond through 10 power magnification.

COLOR

The universally accepted color grading scale is shown below:

D-E-F	G-H-I-J	K-L-M	N-O-P-Q-R	S-T-U-V-W-X-Y-Z
Colorless	Near Colorless	Faint Yellow	Very Light Yellow	Light Yellow

This grading scale is based on subtle difference. Therefore, color is impossible to judge without having two stones side by side.

Gold In Art Jewelers specializes in designing custom jewelry using high quality diamonds and colored gemstones set in gold and platinum. back to top

Glossary

Notes: All diamonds have SI clarity and G-H color unless otherwise noted.
Abbreviations:

RB –	Round Brilliant Cut
OV -	Oval
PS –	Pear Shape
PR –	Princess Cut
MQ –	Marquise Shape
TR –	Trillion Shape
HS –	Heart Shape
EC –	Emerald Cut
TB –	Tapered Baguette Shape
SB –	Straight Baguette
cttw –	Total Carat Weight of Diamonds
Ct. –	Carat
Mel. –	Melee - smaller diamonds surrounding center stones

Gemstones And Their Treatments

Bleaching: The use of heat, light and/or other agents to lighten or remove a gemstone’s color.

Coating: The use of such surface enhancements as lacquering, enameling, inking, foiling, or sputtering of films to improve appearance, provide color, or add other special effects.

Dyeing: The introduction of coloring matter into a gemstone to give it new color, intensify present color or improve color uniformity.

Filling: The filling of surface-breaking cavities or fissures with colorless glass, plastic, solidified borax or similar substances, which are visible under properly illuminated 10X magnification. This process will improve durability, appearance, and/or add weight.

Heating: The use of heat to effect desired alteration of color, clarity, and/or phenomena (Residue of foreign substances in open fractures is not visible under properly illuminated 10X magnification).

Heat & Pressure: The use of heat and pressure combined to effect desired alterations of color and/or clarity.

Impregnation: The impregnation of a porous gemstone with a colorless agent (usually plastic) to give it durability and improve appearance.

Lasering: The use of a laser and chemicals to reach and alter inclusions in diamonds.

Oiling/Resin Infusion: The filling of surface-breaking fissures with colorless oil, wax, resin, or other colorless substances, except glass or plastic, to improve the gemstone’s appearance.

Irradiation: The use of neutrons requiring an environmental safety release from the Nuclear Regulatory Commission (NRC), Gamma and/or electron bombardment to alter a gemstone’s color. The irradiation may be followed by a heating process.

Diffusion: The use of chemicals in conjunction with high temperatures to produce color and/or asterism-producing inclusions.

Waxing/Oiling: The impregnation of a colorless wax, paraffin, and oil in porous opaque or translucent gemstones to improve appearance.

AMETHYST is occasionally heat treated to affect the desired alteration of color and clarity. Most amethysts are treated.

AQUAMARINE is usually heat treated to affect the desired alteration of color and clarity. Most aquamarines are treated.

BERYL is always irradiated to alter a gemstone’s color. The irradiation may be followed by a heating process.

YELLOW BERYL is usually irradiated to affect the color. This may be followed by a heating process. Most yellow beryls are treated.

RED BERYL is commonly treated with colorless oil, wax, resin or other colorless substance, except glass or plastic, to improve the gemstone’s appearance. Most red beryls are treated.

CITRINE is usually heat treated to affect the desired alteration of color and clarity. Most citrines are treated

EMERALD is usually treated with colorless oil, wax, resin or other colorless substances, except glass or plastic, to improve the gemstone’s appearance. Occasionally, dye is used to intensify the gemstones color or improve color uniformity. Most emeralds are treated.

KUNZITE is commonly heat treated or irradiated to affect the desired alteration of color and clarity. Most kunzites are treated.

LAPIS LAZULI is commonly treated with a colorless wax, paraffin and oil in porous opaque or translucent gemstones to improve appearance. Dye may also be used to intensify color or improve color uniformity. Most lapis is treated.

MORGANITE is commonly heat treated to affect the desired alteration of color and clarity. Most morganites are treated.

OPAL is rarely treated. Any treatment would be the filling of surface breaking fissures with colorless oil, wax, resin or other colorless substances, except glass or plastic, to improve the gemstone’s appearance. Most opals are not treated.

PEARLS, natural or cultured, are usually bleached by the use of heat, light and/or other agents to lighten or remove color. Most pearls are treated.

COLORED PEARLS are usually dyed by the introduction of coloring matter to give new color, intensify present color or improve color uniformity. Most colored pearls are treated.

BLACK OR GRAY PEARLS are occasionally irradiated to alter the color. The irradiation may be followed by a heating process. Most black or gray pearls are not treated.

PERIDOT is rarely treated. Any treatment would be the filling of surface breaking fissures with colorless oil, wax, resin or other colorless substances, except glass or plastic, to improve the gemstone’s appearance. Most peridots are not treated.

RUBY is usually heat treated to affect the desired alteration of color and clarity. Rubies are commonly treated by the filling of surface breaking cavities or fissures with colorless glass, plastic, solidified borax or similar substances, which are visible under properly illuminated 10X magnification. This process improves durability and appearance. Most rubies are treated.

SAPPHIRE is commonly heat treated to affect the desired alteration of color and clarity. Occasionally it is chemically colored by diffusion. (chemicals and high heat) Most sapphires are treated.

FANCY SAPPHIRE is commonly heat treated to affect the desired alteration of color and clarity. Most fancy sapphires are treated.

COLOR SAPPHIRE (yellow/orange) is occasionally irradiated to alter a gemstone’s color. The irradiation may be followed by a heating process. Most yellow and orange sapphires are not treated.

TANZANITE is usually heat treated to affect the desired alteration of color and clarity. Most tanzanites are treated.

TOPAZ (BLUE) is usually irradiated to alter a gemstone’s color. Most blue topaz’ are treated.

TOPAZ (YELLOW OR ORANGE) is occasionally irradiated to alter a gemstone’s color. Most yellow or orange topaz’ are not treated.

TOPAZ (GREEN) is usually chemically colored by diffusion. It is occasionally irradiated to alter a gemstone’s color. Most green topaz’ are treated.

TOPAZ (RED OR PINK) is usually heat treated to affect the desired alteration of color or clarity. Most red or pink topaz’ are treated.

TOURMALINE (YELLOW/ORANGE) is sometimes heat treated or irradiated to affect the desired alteration of color or clarity. Most yellow/orange tourmalines are treated.

TOURMALINE (GREEN/BLUE) is commonly heat treated to affect the desired alteration of color or clarity. Occasionally the filling of surface breaking fissures with colorless oil, wax, resin or other colorless substance is a treatment. Most green/blue tourmalines are treated.

TOURMALINE (PINK/RED/PURPLE) is commonly heat treated to affect the desired alteration of color or clarity. Occasionally the filling of surface breaking fissures with colorless oil, wax, resin or other colorless substance is a treatment or the gemstone may be dyed to intensify present color or improve color uniformity. Most pink/red/purple tourmalines are treated.

ZIRCON (BLUE/COLORLESS) is always heat treated to affect the desired alteration of color or clarity.

ZIRCON (YELLOW) is rarely heat treated to affect the desired alteration of color or clarity. Most yellow zircons are not treated.

ZIRCON (RED) is commonly heat treated to affect the desired alteration of color or clarity. Most red zircons are treated.

Eliminating Conflict Diamonds or Blood Diamonds

There has been a major breakthrough in the campaign to eliminate the traffic in “conflict diamonds.” All of the nations with significant involvement in the diamond trade have agreed on a global certification system aimed at preventing criminals from integrating contraband diamonds mined in African combat zones into the legitimate supply chain.

Gold In Art Jewelers accepts only those diamonds that are monitored and warranted by the Kimberly Process Certification System, from the mine to the store, so you don’t have to worry about blood diamonds or conflict diamonds at Gold In Art Jewelers.

Role of Governments

More than 60 countries have adopted a system to control the export and import of rough diamonds mined from January 1, 2003 onward. Known as the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme, it requires that each shipment of rough diamonds – before stones are cut and polished – be in a tamper-resistant container and accompanied by a government-validated certificate. Each certificate is uniquely numbered and contains data describing the shipment’s contents. Shipments lacking proper certification are turned back or impounded. Any country declining to participate is effectively barred from the international diamond trade.

Role of Industry

To supplement the government program, the International Diamond Manufacturers Association (IDMA) and the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) – representing virtually all significant processors and traders – have established a regimen of self-regulation. Its principal element is a system of warranties that will accompany invoices covering the sale of rough diamonds, polished diamonds and diamond jewelry.

The requirement applies to rough diamonds mined after December 31, 2002 and product fabricated from them.

Each time the diamonds change hands, the seller affirms to the buyer, in writing, that the diamonds come from legitimate sources “not involved in funding conflict [and] in compliance with United Nations resolutions…” Under a new code of conduct adopted by IDMA and WFDB, members are required, among other things, to deal only with sellers that use the warranty system.

For more information visit www.diamondfacts.org